Hail Victoria, queen of Canadian gins
Notable excerpts:
[Victoria Gin]'s first "blind tasting" review from experts came about a month ago at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, where it took one of several silver medals. It tied with Hendricks, the trendy superpremium $42 Scottish brand that is prominently and idiosyncratically flavoured with cucumber and rose petals.
.... If vodka is a barman's idea of water, gin could be considered tea - a flavourless clear spirit embellished with "botanical" infusions. In addition to juniper, which by definition is the primary ingredient, it typically includes coriander, angelica, anise, cardamom and orange. But anything goes.
And any location goes. Though gin has long been associated with the British Empire and Holland, legally, unlike Scotch whisky, it can be made wherever. Including Canada.
Victoria Gin is far from the first made in this country. Another small producer, Island Spirits Distillery on Hornby Island, B.C., makes one. And big brands such as Gilbey's have been around for decades. But Victoria Spirits may be the first small-batch specialty gin maker in the land.