When Lisa Helps was elected mayor of “Canada’s most English city” in 2014 by 89 votes, her refusal to swear allegiance to the Queen was criticised nationally (Charlie Mitchell writes). Today, though, she embodies the transformation of Victoria, British Columbia, itself.
“We have a new story now,” Helps, 45, said in a slick café opposite city hall, adding that it included a booming technology sector and immigration from Asia and South America.
Victoria had long seen itself as “a little piece of old England”, thanks to its Tudor revival architecture, Kipling and Shakespeare streets, red buses and obsession with high tea. Now though, the former British trading post is embracing a new future, just as the discovery of 1,100 unmarked graves at former assimilation schools for indigenous children prompt a reckoning over colonialism.
To aid reconciliation Helps removed a statue of Sir John A Macdonald, a Glaswegian who became Canada’s first prime minister, at city hall. This month she cancelled Canada Day celebrations, for which she was called an “unpatriotic *****.”
The city’s statue of Queen Victoria was barricaded to keep anti-racism protesters from toppling it. “I just don’t think it’s as relevant as it once was,” Helps said of the monarchy.
Polling backs her up: fewer than 50 per cent of Canadians approve of the Queen as head of state, although the Duke and Duchess of Sussex were well received when they moved to Victoria in 2019.
Aspects of Victoria still feel British. There are pubs such as The Churchill and Penny Farthing, but, says John Hughes, executive director of Craigdarroch Castle, which was built in 1890, the city has undergone a “natural evolution” over 20 years, rather than consciously leaving its “little slice of England behind”.
Every year dozens wear tweed and ride vintage bikes before sitting down to tea. However, the Tweed Ride’s organiser, Grant Turner, 61, does not lament the loss of Englishness. “It never meant a lot to me. Victoria is moving on.”
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